Feeds:
Posts
Comments

Posts Tagged ‘interior design’

Finally!  I’m back to post my Pinterest challenge project!  I was away for a funeral for a while and had to get back to regular life and catch up and of course it took me much longer than I wanted it too.  Anyway…

So I’m totally into this faux taxidermy trend.  I kind of love it and hope it sticks around forever.  In Sawyer’s nursery I have a pair of antlers (not faux…they’re the real deal) that I bought at a thrift store for $4 and spray painted white.   This is a pic from this post:  (Wow!  I need to get pics posted of Sawyer’s completed room.)

I also found a little porcelain cow bust at a thrift store for $3 that is now hanging on the wall in my master.  This is a pic of it from this post:

So even though I already have a couple of animals hanging on my walls, I couldn’t help but want to get some more!

For the Pinterest Challenge I went into my DIY folder and purused my past pins.  When I saw this image

I thought it would be the perfect project!  I was fully aware of course that my DIY version would most likely be uglier than this but I thought I’d give it a shot anyway.  Maybe the ugliness would add to the charm. 🙂

So off to Home Depot I went in search of some wire.

Heres the breakdown:

Cost:  About $6

Supplies:

  • Plenty of 16 Ga. Dark Annealed Wire (I bought the 2lb reel).  OKay.  So now that this project is done, I can tell you I HATE THIS WIRE for this project.  It is too stiff and hard to shape and really beat up my hands and fingers!  I suggest a covered clothesline wire or floral wire.  I saw some colored floral wire at the Dollar Store and am going to try it out again with that I think.  But, for the sake of accuracy in the tutorial, I used the 16 Ga. wire from Home Depot for this project.
  • Wire cutters.
  • Pliers or jewelry tools are helpful for twisting the wire ends.
And thats it.  Simple and cheap.  Now the fun part…
1.  The first thing I did was make a wire circle to use as my base.  Depending on how large you want your animal head you can determine the size of your base.  I also was sure to add a little loop up at the top of the base for hanging.
As you can see from the pics above, this wire made it hard to keep smooth and straight so my faux deer head turned out a lot more wobbly looking than the inspiration pic.  I just convince myself it adds charm.
2.  The next thing I did was build a neck.  I used 4 equal lengths of wire and attached them to the base.  I curved them slightly so that they weren’t sticking straight out of the base but concave in a bit as a neck of an animal does.  Then I made another circle (slightly smaller than the base circle) and attached it to the ends of the neck wires.
3.  Then I started building the head.  Following somewhat my inspiration pic, I built the head using curving pieces.  First, one coming up from the neck to form the chin piece, then two others curving down from the top of the head to the chin piece.
4.  Next I added a long piece of wire that connects all three of those new parts together.
5.  Then I added another wire that curved a bit and came down forming the front of the face from the base of the neck to under the chin.
6.  See how its starting to kinda look like something?  Even if it is a little whompy.  😉  Then I added a couple more curvy piece to either side on the center wire on the face and made and added ears.  From here you could probably make this into a variety of different horned creatures.  Although I originally wanted to copy the inspiration image and make swirly cool horns like that, after several attempts, it just wasn’t working for me and I decided to make my little guy a deer instead.  Maybe if I had used easier wire, I could’ve done it.  Meh.  Another day…
7.  Next I made the antlers.  To do this I took two really long pieces of wire cut to the same length.  I folded them in half (at the same time), and started forming the “branches” up the sides of each.  Then I pulled them apart and attached them to the top of the head inside each ear.  I had to mess with them a bit to get them to look somewhat symmetrical.
8.  Then I stepped back and took a look and decided the face needed a little more so I added a cross wire across the nose of the face and also decided to give him nostrils.   This was the finished result!
What do you think?!  Like I said, not nearly as pretty as my inspiration Pin but I love him nonetheless. Just take my advice, get some really good wire cutters and really pliable wire if you decided to do this one!
And thats it!  Thats my first Pinterest Challenge project!  YAY!  I’m sure there will be many more to come.

Read Full Post »

A friend of mine tried to update her honey-oak cabinets with a dark espresso gel stain.  No bueno.  I have never worked with gel stain before but from what I’ve researched it seems like a fickle medium.  Anyway, I’m not sure if it was the way my friends applied the stain or if it was the type of finish that was on the oak cabinets before but the stain went on blotchy and, once dry, immediately began chipping off with the slightest touch.  They were in a pickle so they called me up to get my opinion on the matter.  I went over and took a look at the cabinets and got a handle on what had been done.  We then came up with a plan of action to get their kitchen looking lively and updated again.  Then they got to work stripping and sanding the cabinets back to bare wood.  BIG JOB but worth it.  If you are reading this post with your own cabinets in mind I should tell you that stripping and sanding back cabinets to bare wood ISN’T ALWAYS necessary if you’re planning on painting them and/or refinishing them.  In the case of my friends, we had to strip the gel stain away because you never want to paint on top of a coat that was never correctly bonded to the original cabinets surface.  So basically, and I’m not an expert so you might need a second opinion depending on the state of your cabinets, if you have chipping finish (stain, laquer, paint, etc.) stripping and sanding are usually necessary before refinishing.  If your cabinets are in good condition (no chipping finish, bubbles, drips, etc.) a light sanding with medium grit sandpaper (just to give the existing finish some tooth for the new stain/primer to hold on to) should do the trick just fine.  On my cabinets (we had standard builder grade oak cabinets when we first moved in that I wanted to “jazz up”) I simply went over them lightly with sandpaper and then antiqued and stained them with a stain 1 shade darker than the original finish.  Heres the before and after (sorry the pics aren’t great).

If you are going to stain over pre-stained and laquered cabinets without stripping them, you should only apply a  new stain that is one or maybe two shades darker than the existing stain.  Also, keep in mind that if you have any “fake wood” (mine have fake wood on the sides of that cabinet shelving) this will not “take” the stain like wood so if you go more than a shade or two darker you will have to most likely replace those areas with new “fake wood” to match the new stain.  I stained over my fake wood with the same new stain I used on my cabinets and it blended in fine since I didn’t go much darker than the original color.

For my friend’s cabinets, we discussed staining the oak a darker medium brown color.  They liked the look of natural wood antiqued cabinets.  Their home has a french-country flair to it so we wanted to do something inkeeping with that feeling.  Heres the issue we had with staining the now bare oak cabinets:  Wood grain.  Tons of it.  Oak (especially oak that has been stripped and sanded bare) has tons of gorgeous, open, porous wood grain that soaks up stain like crazy.  It is BEAUTIFUL no doubt, but in this situation would have made the cabinets far too rustic and busy looking alongside their beautiful speckled granite countertops.  Now, I have heard of ways you can lessen the graininess of oak cabinets so that they take stain more uniformly.  You can “seal” the grain before you stain with different things.  I’ve never done it and I can’t vouch for it as a DIY’er.  So with this realization we decided to paint the cabinets instead and antique them.  I know.  The purists out there are going to hate me for that.  But to each his own.  In this case, this was the best option to 1. Update their cabinets and spruce up their kitchen, 2. Make the cabinets POP with the granite counters and black/stainless appliances, 3. Create a nice flow with the style of the house and the homeowners decor.  So what we decided on, after much deliberation, was to go ahead and paint the main cabinets an antiqued cream and the island antiqued black to make it POP.  And I’m telling ya, its gonna be gorgeous.  You may even forgive me for painting over wood. 😉

So how’d we do it?  I brought home a couple of doors as a demo for you guys.

Cost: Varies depending on the size of your kitchen

Supplies:

  • Primer: Ask a pro or get a recommendation from the sales associate depending on the state of your cabinets.  There are tons of great primers out there.  I used Behr primer for these.
  • Paint: Interior latex paint in semigloss.  The semigloss finish helps the stain go on smoothly and creates an easy-t0-clean surface for future wipe-downs.
  • Sandpaper: Medium grit and fine grit.
  • Stain with a polyurethane coating built in.  This will eliminate the need for an additional laquer coat and seal the areas that have been sanded back.  *TIP*  Buy a stain that is darker than your paint color.  For example, for an antiqued cream finish I bought white paint, and a medium brown stain.  The stain gets into the corners for the antiquing and creates a soft variated wash over the entire cabinet turning the cabinet cream.  Realize when you are buying your paint and stain that for this technique that the stain will darken and dull the paint color.  So, buy a paint that is lighter and brighter than your intended result and a stain that compliments it.  If you are nervous, just buy some sample paint colors and a stain and test out the technique on some scrap wood until you find the color combination that you like.
  • Good paintbrushes. You want the cabinets to have as little paint strokes as possible so find a couple of great paintbrushes with fines, soft bristles.  If you have decorative moulding, get a 1″ angled brush to get in all the corners and a 2″ flat brush for the flat surfaces.
  • A sponge.  They have different size sponges in the paint section of your local hardware store.  I got a big one and cut it up as I needed.
  • Disposable gloves.
  • Blue heavy duty paper towels.  Find them in the paint section as well.  You will use these to wipe off the stain when you do the antiquing.
1.  Prep your cabinets.  This might mean stripping them and sanding them down to wood (as mine are), or simple hand-sanding them with a medium grit sandpaper.  Thoroughly wipe down the cabintes with a damp cloth to remove excess dirt and debris.
2.  Begin priming your cabinets.  If your cabinets have decorative moulding (like these), take a small angled brush and prime the moulding first being sure to get in the corners, follow the woodgrain as much as possible, and being careful of drips and puddles.
3.  Next prime the flat surfaces with the flat brush, following the wood grain as much as possible.  Try to keep your strokes as steady and straight as possible and be sure not to overload your brush with paint.  Also, be careful not to over-brush your cabinet; the primer is typically quick drying and will quickly develop a skin that may be hard to smooth out if over brushed.  Also, always prime and paint in a well-ventilated area and keep out of direct sunlight.
4.  Once the primer has dried, paint the first coat of paint color onto your cabinets.  Follow the same painting style as with the prime: moulding first, flat surfaces second, follow wood grain, straight strokes, don’t overload, don’t over brush, etc.  If you are seeing more prominent brush strokes than you would like to, don’t worry.  Just paint the cabinet up and let it dry.  If you need to you can “buff” out some of the heavy brush strokes with fine grit sandpaper in between coats if you need to.
5.  Let the first coat dry.  Survey the cabinets for drips or heavy brush strokes.  If you see any that bother you, lightly “buff” them out with fine grit sandpaper.
6.  Apply the second coat of paint the same way as the first.
7.  Allow that coat to dry and do any touch-ups as needed.
8.  If you’d like to do some distressing at this point you can.  Lightly sand back to the wood edges, corners, grooves, of your cabinets until they are distressed to your liking.
9.  Now comes the fun part!  Get out your stain, sponge(s), and paper towels, and disposable gloves.  Cut a medium sized wedge shape out of your sponge (this will help get the stain in the grooves).  Open up your stain and get ready to work fast.  (If this intimidates you, practice on a scrap piece of wood until you are familiar with the technique and timing).
10.  Dip the end of your sponge into the stain and quickly apply it to one side of the cabinet.  Make sure to squeeze the stain into all the grooves and corners.  Only do one section at a time as this stain will set up fast and you need to be able to focus on one area at a time to make it look right.  Be careful not to overload your sponge with stain.  You want it damp, not dripping.
11.  Now that one section is covered, pull off one paper towel and fold it into fourths.  Firmly press the paper towel onto the stained portion of your cabinet and begin wiping off the stain, following the wood grain as much as possible.  If you see too much stain puddling in the edges, use a corner of your paper towel to sop up and evenly distribute the stain throughout that area.
11.  Do the remaining sides of the cabinet the same way.  *TIP* If the stain starts to dry too early for your liking, re-wet your sponge with a little more stain and work it into that area.
12.  Do the flat surfaces the same way, following the wood grain and blending the stain in to the stained sides.
13.  Let the newly stained cabinet dry overnight.  Then do the insides the same way.
And thats it!  Gorgeous eh!  I’ll get pics when my friends kitchen is complete!

Read Full Post »

Yay for Friday!!  My hubby has the day off and we’re going wakeboarding today with some friends.  I was preggo last summer so its been a WHILE since I’ve wakeboarded so I’m a little nervous and hoping that I can get through the day without any major injuries to my body as well as my pride.  I’m also not super excited to be seen in a bathing suit (its been 9 months today since I had my little guy!) since I still am not in my best “shape”.  Oh well.  Gotta take advantage of the opportunity to get some sun and have some fun!  Hopefully the kiddos will hang in there…we have nice childless friends who never complain about our extra cargo.  At least not to our faces that is. 🙂  Anyway, hopefully the kids will be good and have fun on the boat.  All right then…on with it..

So you remember a few posts back I put up this pic of this amazing ostrich feather light fixture right?

Aren’t you in LOVE with this?  I was dying to DIY one for my kitchen so I started looking into buying ostrich feathers…Umm…yeah…..WAY TOO MUCH $$$ even for a DIY version.  The cheapest I could find ostrich feathers was for about $1.50 a piece and thats the wholesale price if I bought in bulk.  I’d need at least 100 or so which would bring it to about $150 for just the feathers alone.  Not gonna happen.  So I started brainstorming to try to come up with a “faux” ostrich feather version.  I had an idea at about 3 in the morning one night to make faux ostrich feathers with thin white fuzzy yarn and pipe cleaners.  I thought I could make a sort of “loom” out of a cardboard box and weave myself 5 or so feathers at a time.  So I tried it.  And although it was a pretty creative idea,  my faux feathers looked how you would imagine they would…like pipecleaner and yarn “feathers”.  They would be really cute for a kindergarten project but there was no way they’d make the cut for my light fixture.  Bummer.  It was worth a shot.  If any of you have any great ideas to DIY this light with “faux” feathers let me know.  But for now, I have to say that I am pretty happy with my alternative project.

So after my yarn feather idea fell through, I started thinking about what else I could do and looking at other images for lighting inspiration.

I wanted to make something with kind of a fullness and sort of modern elegance.  Although the one I made is posterboard and much more structural than the lose feather light from above, they have the same kind of feeling and touch of lightness that I love.

I made this little baby myself with nothing but 5 sheets of posterboard and a glue gun and I’m thrilled with how it turned out!  It only cost me about $2 to make!

Theres no tutorial on this one (:( Sorry!) but I encourage you to grab some posterboard and get creative and see what amazingness you can design for your next new lighting solution!

Now, I just am going to cut a small hole through the base and attach it to my lighting setup above my kitchen table!  I’m excited to get it up and I’ll post pics as soon as it it hung!  Hope you like it and have fun making your own!  Have a great weekend!

P.S.  MAKE SURE TO USE A COOL BULB WITH THIS LIGHT FIXTURE!!! A COOL FLUORESCENT OR LED is best.

Update: I finally got this thing hung!! Yay and thanks daddy for your help! 🙂

Read Full Post »

I painted my kitchen chairs green last weekend and I’m LOVING the way they pop now against my new white tulip table!  I completely forgot to take close up before pics of the chairs and didn’t even think of doing a “how to” on them but I will give you the rundown on how I painted, distressed, stained them right now for those of you who might be wondering.  This is my own made up way to distress and paint wooden furniture.  There are tons of great sites out there with lots of professionals that really know what they’re doing but I’m impatient and cheap so I do things the short and sweet way.   These chairs were previously painted cream and distressed and stained.  To get them green I simply bought a spray primer (in grey to save on top coats), and green spray paint.  The paint I used is from Rust-Oleum and is called “Fern”.  It came in a “Gloss Protective Enamel” which worked great and will be extra durable to little hands and wipe downs.  I also bought a stain that has a built in polyeurothane coating.  I used Minwax PolyShades in Antique Walnut.  Staining over a painted piece of wood furniture gives an antique feel and gives the piece real character.  I wanted my old farmhouse style chairs to look old and worn because I thought the flat gloss paint color would look odd on that style of chair.  Anyway, heres what I did:

1.  I sanded the chairs slightly with a medium grit sandpaper.  Just to give them some tooth for the primer to hold on to.

2.  Then I sprayed a coat of the grey primer all over the chairs.  I wasn’t super concerned if they weren’t completely covered in opaque primer.

3.  Once the primer was dry, I sprayed the chairs with the green enamel spray paint.  If I weren’t doing these for myself I would’ve done several light coats until the chairs were covered.  But I am impatient and didn’t care about PERFECTION so I just slapped it on thick in one coat, being careful not to create drips.

4.  I let the freshly painted chairs dry overnight.

5.  The next day I took my sandpaper and lightly sanded some of the edges and divets and other areas to give it that distressed, worn look.  Some of the areas got sanded down to the original wood, others got sanded down to the cream paint color that was on them before.  My chairs were already “beat up” from when I had distressed and painted them the first time.  If you want a real distressed look, feel free to take an awl, hammers, rocks, chisels, etc. to your piece to distressed it and make it look worn and old.  Then, when you sand, pay special attention to all those little areas and make them come out by sanding them back a bit.

6.  After they were all sanded and distressed, I wiped them down really well with a damp cloth.  Then I got my stain out and started applying it one area at a time with a paper towel.  This is where you gotta move kinda quick.  I just dip my towel into the stain and start rubbing it on in the direction of the woodgrain (or where the woodgrain would go if you hadn’t painted it).  Rub it on and keep rubbing over it until you have applied the right amount.  It will start to dry and get tacky if you rub too much though so you might want to practice the look you’re going for on a scrap piece of wood first until you feel like you have it down.  I covered the entire chair this way with the stain, making sure I worked in sections and got in all the sanded back areas (the stain is what seals those parts that you’ve sanded back so they don’t continue to chip).  

7.  Let the stain dry at least overnight before using the furniture.  I waited a couple of days before I brought our chairs back in to use.

Anyway, thats how I did them. So sorry there are no pics!  But heres what they look like now in my kitchen:

You can see in the pic above how the stain creates variations in the paint color.  I love that.

And there they are!  I love them and am even more thrilled about the green since I found some awesome green dishes at the DOLLAR STORE last week!  I’ll have to take pics of those too because they’re seriously awesome and you’ll never believe they came from the Dollar Store.

P.S.  I sold my old table and 2 of the 4 chairs that came with my tulip table and actually ended up making a $10 profit out of the whole deal!  Which made my hubby very very happy! 🙂

Anyway, check back soon because I also made a fabulous new light fixture for my kitchen that you’re going to want to see the easy breezy tutorial for!  Heres a sneak peek!

Read Full Post »

I walked through my entry way hall the other day and suddenly had the urge to draw on the walls.  The hall looked fine as it was, but for some reason I felt like it needed a little more “dazzle”.  I’ve been loving some of the wallpaper that I’ve been seeing on design blogs and in design mags but never have wanted to “commit” to a wallpaper enough to justify some of the hefty price-tags that are tacked on to my favorites.  Here are a few of the wallpapers I’ve seen lately that I love:

I LOVED this Binweed Floral Wallpaper I found on femaleways.com.

And this Berry Black wallpaper also on femaleways.com.

This Sketchy Frames wallpaper is so fun too.

Wallpaper has re-emerged into interior design as a new beautiful wall decor option.  I used to hate the stuff, images of granny florals and peach and forest green came to mind, but now I acknowledge that a good wall-covering can really MAKE a space come alive.  As much as I have come to love the look of a wallpapered wall, I still can’t bring myself to make the commitment to spend the $$$ to do it.  So I came up with my own solution for an easy and inexpensive alternative:  Drawing on my walls with a paint pen.  And I must say, I am pretty pleased with the results so far.  Want to do it too?  OKAY!  Heres how!

Cost:  Depending on the size of your wall(s) you may need to buy 2 or more paint pens for about $3 each from your local craft store.  For the 2 walls in my hall that I’m doing, I’m thinking I’ll be using up 3 pens for a cost of about $9 for the finished look.

Supplies:

  • A paint pen(s) in a color of your choice.  I used white because thats what I had on hand but get creative and use whatever you think would look nice on top of your existing wall color.  *TIP* For a more muted fancy look use a color just a shade or two lighter (or) darker than your wall color.  Also, I think this would look amazing done in a metallic silver or gold paint pen.
  • A notepad or something to “blot” your pen on.
  • A stencil or traceable picture if you are not comfortable just winging it.
The tutorial is more about how to draw the flowers I am doing on my wall.  You could use this same “paint-pen wallpaper” technique using a stencil or just tracing any image you’d like to use from a printed page onto your wall.  The possibilities are vast so let your imagination go and have fun with it!
1.  To make the sketchy poppy-ish flowers for my “wallpaper” I simply started by drawing one large petal-like blob on the wall.
2. Then I just loosely traced over that again to make it more sketchy looking.  I also added little lines in one of the indented parts of the petal for my center.
3.  Next I loosely sketched in circles and dots to finish off the center of my flower.  There is really no screwing up here.  With this look each flower you draw will be different (which is what makes it kinda awesome and artistic) and none of them are “perfect”.
4.  For some flowers, this is enough.  But just for the sake of showing you how to draw more I added a squiggly line down the center to create two separate petals.
5.  Then I decided I wanted the petal on the left to fold down so I added this line…
6.  Then I added some more curving lines to the petal on the right to give it some more dimension.    I also finished this flower up by adding the base and stem.  If you’re intimated by the “artisticness” involved in this, don’t be.  Really its easy and you can’t mess up.  If you’re nervous about just jumping in and drawing right on your walls with the paint pen, just practice first on a piece of paper until you feel like you got the look you’re going for down.
7.  And thats basically how I’ve been doing it.  Every flower on my wall is a variation of this design.
*TIPS and POINTERS*  Decide how far apart you want your main vertical “stems” to be and mark those with a pencil on your wall first to keep the pattern consistent.  Draw your flowers first before the stems so you can decide whether some flowers are behind the stems and some are in front to add dimension.   Keep the size and spacing of each flower somewhat consistent so the overall look ends up cohesive and flowing.  Vary the use of full blooms, half open blooms, and buds.  The paint pends work best on walls that aren’t extremely textured and have a coat of base paint in a satin or semi-gloss finish.
Anyway, here are a few more of the flowers on my wall to give you examples and ideas:
And here are some more inspiration pictures of things you can draw with paint pens:
This would be SUPER easy and cute to draw in paint pen on your wall!
Another hand drawn tree wallpaper you could duplicate using a paint pen.
This would be a pretty easy look to achieve by tracing a stencil with a paint pen.
This would be fun if you painted the blue first and then drew the design over the top with a black paint pen.
Anyway, get creative and have fun with it!  It takes a bit of time, I’ve just been adding a couple of flowers every time I walk through the hall, but it is cheaper and a lot more unique and personal than actual wallpaper.  🙂  Enjoy and come back soon…I’m making a light for my kitchen and its going to be FABULOUS!

Read Full Post »

Yay!  I’m excited right now because my hubby just picked up my new tulip table for our kitchen!  I found this baby on Craigslist on Thursday and called right away crossing my fingers that it hadn’t already been sold.  Lucky for me there had been another call on it but that person couldn’t come out to see it until Saturday (sorry person).  I literally jumped up and down when I got off the phone!  I’ve been keeping my eyes peeled for a tulip table for quite a while now, hoping to score something under $200 which I know is a stretch for such an iconic table.  I have seen a few come and go (very quickly) on Craigslist but they’ve never been in my price range.  I also have been eyeballing the Ikea version (their Docksta table) shown here…

…for $179 but I wasn’t thrilled about the fact that it is made out of fiberglass and only 41″ in diameter.  If I were in a smaller apartment with just my hubby I’d probably do it.  But with kiddos and a decent sized kitchen, I really wanted something more substantial in size and durability.

I’ve been drooling (and dreaming) over the Saarinen Tulip Table (the real Mc’Coy) that you see parading all over design mags.  This one here is a marble top (I wish) in size 48″ for about $1100.  A tiny bit pricey for me I’d say…but hey…a girl can dream right?

The tulip table is a classic chic shape that looks just DIVINE paired with just about any kind of chair.  Here are a few of my favorite examples:

This is sort of a traditional eclectic room with a mid century modern twist.  Here the table is paired with the original tulip chairs.

Here is one of my favs.  This is a Jonathan Adler room (done for Liz Lange’s home).  Love the green!

In the pic below the table has been paired up with some old-school bentwood cafe chairs.  Reminds me of an ice cream parlor.  So cute.

I’m in love with this pairing of the tulip table with some robin’s egg blue Louis XV upholstered dining chairs.

This pic from most resembles the combo I’m going for.  I love the punchy distressed wooden chairs with the sleek white table.

I could keep on posting all the awesome combos but I’ll just give you this last one.  I love these graphic upholstered chairs!

So you see, the tulip table is quite the chameleon and a fabulous compliment to any style.  And I OWN ONE.  Albeit not the glamorous Saarinen original, but I’m pretty happy with my pretty little vintage baby.  Want to meet her?  Here she is!

Yes, she is a little thicker on the top, and not quite a seamless as her celebrity friend, but I love her anyway.  My tulip table has a metal base and a white laminate top.  I’m thinking that one day (once my kids have grown a bit and all their damage has been done) I will replace the top with something bigger and thinner.  This table is about 43″ across and comfortably fits our four farmhouse pressed back chairs.  The table actually did come with chairs but I like ours better to make it less “matchy matchy” although I do want to repaint our chairs in some shade of lime green I decided to really make them pop.  The table and four chairs all cost me $150!  Heres a look at the chairs that came with it:

Pretty fun eh?!  They were owned by the same couple since the 70’s so they do sort of smell like old people and moth balls but I think they’ll air out after a few days.  They are white vinyl and I do think I will be keeping two of them because I love the lines and could use them around the house.  The other two I will be reselling and think I probably can make back around $100 for the pair.  Which means that in the end my table will have cost me only $50!  Then, I need to sell my old table…so really when alls said and done I might be making a profit out of the whole ordeal.  🙂  My hubby would be thrilled about that (especially since he didn’t super love the idea of buying a new table when we already had one “that works fine”).  My poor hubby.  He loves me too much and always gives in!

Anyway, so thats my new kitchen table.  I love her and think that she is a great addition to our home!  When I get the chairs painted and new lighting (I’m thinking of making something new) I’ll post more pics.  But for now, here she is again!  Hope you all had a great weekend and come back soon!  I’m going to be busting out some more tutorials this week!

Read Full Post »

So its no secret that I’m having an affair with a guy named Craig and his amazing LIST.  I honestly can’t get through a day without checking out the Houston Craigslist at least twice.  I’ve checked out Craigslist when I lived in other parts of the country but I have to say that I have not seen a list quite as beautiful as the Houston Craigslist.  It is one of the perks of living in such a large city I suppose.  Usually I have some idea of what I’m looking for when I get on and hunt, but I quickly get swept away in the parade of posts and start day dreaming of all the great deals I wish I could snag.  So I thought today I’d give you a peak at my Craigslist wishlist.  But first, here are all the things that I’ve bought on craigslist:

My dining room set (table with leaf, 6 chairs, lighted china cabinet) $400, my cream Ethan Allen living room chairs $50 each, my awesome old church pew $30, my other living room chair and ottoman $50, my bedroom dresser $80, my entry table FREE, my capiz shell dining room chandelier $25, my baby room furniture $150, my daybed guest room bed and trundle $50, and various other misc. accessories.  Craigslist is AWESOME.  Especially if you’re a visionary.

If you happen to live in the Houston area these are posts that have been posted on Craigslist within the past couple of days so you might be lucky enough to snag up my dream deals!

First, these are some of the coolest wing chairs I’ve ever seen.  I’d LOVE to get two to put at the ends of my dining room table.

wing chair color bronw leather – $145 (sugar land)


Date: 2011-03-27, 3:10PM CDT
Reply to: sale-7gaxd-2289788393@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]


 

4 wing chair color bronw leather set 145 sillas para oficinas o cosultorio de piel buenas condicione color cafe

  • Location: sugar land
  • it’s NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
image 2289788393-0 image 2289788393-1
image 2289788393-2 image 2289788393-3

Like this pic from Decor Pad except with a rustic wooden table top:

Or get all 4 and do this kind of thing from the April Issue of ElleDecor:

What if you switched the color scheme around here and did a sleek white dining table with the more rustic brown leather wing chairs?  Yummy.

OR a couple in a more traditional setting like this pic from House and Home’s January 2010 issue:

I love how the Craigslist wing backs are a little unexpected and not quite TRADITIONALLY wing backed.  Anyway, so that is my first LOVE of the day.  If my hubby would let me I would totally go buy all 4 and find places for them.

The next thing I found were these vintage suitcases.  I can’t even tell you how many uses I’d find for these.  They make awesome extra storage, add a decorative fun element to a room, and be FANTASTIC photography props.

Large Vintage Luggage – $50 (Katy)


Date: 2011-03-29, 7:53AM CDT
Reply to: sale-maksj-2292908330@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]


 

I’m cleaning out the house to make room for the baby, so my loss is your gain!
There are 2 large vintage luggage pieces, that were bought from an antique dealer. The original price was $95 a piece, but I am willing to let them go for $50 for both!. Please email me if you have any questions. Thanks for looking!

  • Location: Katy
  • it’s NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
image 2292908330-0

You could stack them and use as a side table or nightstand like this pic from UpWorld.com:

Or get really creative and make them into cabinets like this from RetropolitanHip:

Or use them as awesome photo props:

Like the pics above from Marry You Me.

OK.  Are you drooling yet?  I’m not done.  Here is another cute vintagey thing I want from Craigslist.  Soley because it would be so fun to have!

ANTIQUE PAY PHONE REPLICA – $85 (Katy)


Date: 2011-03-28, 6:26PM CDT
Reply to: sale-rv5ms-2292239079@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]


 

This is a replica of the old fashioned antique pay phones. It is in like-new condition and actually works!! It appears to be a dial/rotary phone, but is actually a push button phone with the buttons in a circle pattern beneath the numbers (see photo). You can insert coins , which store in the bottom like a bank. The phone does NOT require coins for use.

There is no damage to the phone – it is like new and is fully functional. It makes a great addition to a game room or kitchen and is quite the conversation piece!

  • Location: Katy
  • it’s NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
image 2292239079-0

And what about this awesome camel back sofa?  I would reupholster the thing in something awesome and put it at the end of my bed.

Bassett Camel-back Sofa – $150 (Clear Lake)


Date: 2011-03-29, 10:11AM CDT
Reply to: sale-ununq-2293141854@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]


 

Bassett Camel-back sofa
Used but in very good condition
Length: 79 1/2 inches
Width: 31 1/2 inches
Height: 35 3/4 inches

CASH ONLY
281-218-8287

  • Location: Clear Lake
  • it’s NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
image 2293141854-0 image 2293141854-1

Like this kinda but more awesome:

I like this one a bit better:

This ones fun too:

 

This is another camel back sofa that is FREE right now that I would totally jump on if I had a place for it.  I of course would reupholster it and possibly paint the wood white.

FREE SOFA AND CUSHIONS (HOUSTON)


Date: 2011-03-29, 8:14PM CDT
Reply to: sale-7pesm-2294324198@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]


 

Needs a good cleaning, reupholster or slip cover. The cushions are just white insterts, so you can get covers for those too.

Need your own help and way to get this thing.

Yes pets, non-smoking home.

  • Location: HOUSTON
  • it’s NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
image 2294324198-0

 

So it would look more like this (check out the graphic black and white striped sofa on the right):

Or this:

Or this:

Heres another AMAZING sofa that I just ADORE and have a spicy vision for.  It would be pretty labor intensive to reupholster this one but SO worth it…

couch dark blue tufting/classic – $175 (the woodlands)


Date: 2011-03-29, 8:00AM CDT
Reply to: sale-hrcqc-2292912946@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]


 

extra long, great condition, non smoking, child free, pet free environment

  • Location: the woodlands
  • it’s NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
image 2292912946-0 image 2292912946-1

…If you could make it look more like this:

or this:

or this:

or this crisp and clean dream:

 

Then I ran across this awesome headboard and dresser.  How FUN is this!  I would paint it and lacquer it up to really make it shine!

Dresser/Headboard – $150 (Santa Fe)


Date: 2011-03-29, 2:57PM CDT
Reply to: sale-ethqc-2293835048@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]


 

Heavy/Solid – Queen Size

Call 409-925-6000 – I will not respond to emails – due to spam.

  • Location: Santa Fe
  • it’s NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
image 2293835048-0 image 2293835048-1

 

So it would look a bit more like this:

or this:

or this:

I just LOVE it.  I want it.  I wish I could get it and paint it and build a room around it.

The last thing I want to show you is this brass and glass coffee table.  It is really classic and could really work well in new traditional or even modern eclectic spaces.

Elegant Brass Coffee Table with Glass Top – $70 (Spring, Texas)


Date: 2011-03-29, 6:34PM CDT
Reply to: sale-8eaq9-2294148697@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]


 

For sale is a brass coffee table with glass top. The glass has a beveled edge and is approximately 3/4″ thick. Very heavy. Surface is 42″ square. The glass and table have no chips, cracks, scrapes or dents, however the brass does need a thorough cleaning and polishing. $70 OBO. Please call 281-376-8218 or email me if interested.

  • Location: Spring, Texas
  • it’s NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
image 2294148697-0 image 2294148697-1
image 2294148697-2 image 2294148697-3

Kinda like this:

or this:

or this:

Anyway, have I got you daydreaming now too?  Check out your local Craigslist!  With a little vision and some elbow grease you can really get some great pieces for your space.  Have fun shopping! 🙂

 

 

 

 

Read Full Post »

« Newer Posts - Older Posts »