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Happy Easter everyone!  I meant to post this yesterday but I just didn’t have the time.  I made this for my son for Easter this year and I thought I’d teach you a’ll how to make it for yourself or your little ones.  I don’t have much time to write this post so I’m just going to jump right into it!  Have fun!

Cost: Around $8-$12 depending on what you have on hand.

Supplies:

  • A blank T-shirt in a bright color.  I got mine at Hobby Lobby for $3 but I also find that the Garanimals brand at Walmart goes on sale alot and has good quality blank shirts for appliqueing.
  • Felt:  White, pink, and brown.  I buy my felt sheets for $0.37 at Hobby Lobby.
  • Two buttons in odd sizes.
  • Fabric paint or ink.  I used a “TeeJuice” pen in brown for my letters.  You can find them at the craft store for around $3.50.
  • Foam letter stamps.  (If you did the Alphabet Pillow tutorial then you now own a set or know where you can borrow some.)
  • A sewing machine and contrasting thread.
  • Transfer webbing.  You’ll only need a little bit for this project but I always have some on hand to do my appliques.  You can buy it in yardage for about $2 per yard at the fabric/craft stores.  I LOVE this stuff and use it ALL the time so if you’re going to follow these tutorials, you’ll see me using it a lot I’m sure.  Basically all it is is a fusible backing that you iron on to your appliques which allows you to iron your appliques on to your t-shirt (or other item) before you stitch.  It makes the applique stable so that it is easy to stitch on with your machine and it makes the overall image more durable for future washing.  Great stuff.  I couldn’t craft without it.
  • Sharp scizzors.
  • A hot iron, no steam.
  • An ironing board.

Ok, thats your list of supplies.  Gather it up and meet me back here for your instructions…

Ready?  Lets make this thing.

  1. Wash and dry your t-shirt to avoid shrinking after the applique is on.
  2. Lay your shirt out flat and create your design by laying a piece of paper onto the shirt where you’d like the applique to go and then drawing your design onto the paper based on how big you’d like it to be on the shirt.  I like to freehand draw my designs since I like them to look kind of unkempt and messy (like kids art) but if you have no confidence in your artisitc abilities you could google a bunny head image and print it off and use it as your design.  Heres what I did on mine:
  3. The design is just a rough sketch of what you’re trying to accomplish.  You basically just need the design to ensure that the applique isn’t too big or too small for your t-shirt.  After you have it drawn out, cut out the main pieces; like the head and the ears.
  4. Now, lay your main pieces (head and ears) onto your white felt and cut around them (I cut mine a rectangular or square around my design pieces).
  5. Do the same with your other design elements; pink bunny ears parts, pink bunny nose, brown chocolate messy mouth part.  I don’t really make “patterns” for these elements, I just eyeball it.  Anyway, the main thing to understand is that you just want big enough felt squares/rectangles cut out to fit your design pieces.
  6. Once you’ve got all those felt pieces cut out.  Lay them out on your transfer webbing (trans web rough side toward the felt), and cut your trans web out in the same size pieces as your felt pieces.
  7. Next, take your felt pieces with their trans web backing pieces and with a hot, dry iron, iron the trans web onto the felt pieces one by one.  (If these instructions are a little foggy to you, refer to the instructions  on your trans web).
  8. Once you have adhered all the trans web pieces to their coordinating felt pieces you can use the paper backing side of the felt pieces to draw out your design elements.  Below I have drawn out my inside bunny ears, my bunny nose, and my chocolate mouth piece, as well as my extra candy bar piece (you can leave out the candy bar if you’d like).  Ignore the little slivered piece.  I didn’t use it in my design.
  9. Now that you have your pieces drawn out on your felt, use your sharp scizzors and cut them out into their individual design elements.
  10. On your t-shirt, lay out all your design pieces to be sure that you like them and to get an idea for what order to iron them onto your shirt.
  11. Once you have a plan of action, remove your pieces from your shirt and then carefully peel away the paper backing to expose the rubbery trans web side of your felt pieces.
  12. Lay your t-shirt flat on your ironing board and place your first piece where you’d like and then set it to your shirt with a hot iron pressing firmly (trans web side to the shirt) and moving slowly over your felt piece.
  13. Continue layering your pieces on this way until your design elements are iron securely in place.  I ironed my bunny ears first since I knew they’d be somewhat tucked under the head and then continued with the rest of the elements from bottom to top.
  14. Once you have all the elements on there, get out your alphabet stamps and find the letters that spell “hopped up”.
  15. Using the same fabric stamping technique as you learned from the “Alphabet Pillow Tutorial” spell out “hopped up” on your t-shirt.  TIP:  Start with the middle letters first and work out so you can center the words under your design.
  16. Once you’ve got your phrase on there and the ink/paint has dried, heat set your letters with a dry iron.
  17. At this point you can simply sew on your button eyes and be done if you’d like.  The trans web won’t hold up but for just a few washes, but if you just want something quick and cute for your little one to wear for one day, it would work fine.  But, I really like to finish my appliques with a contrasting stitch that not only secures the design to the shirt more permanently but also gives more detail and quirkiness to the design.
  18. So grab your machine and stitch down your applique at the edges of the design, being sure to stitch over each of the design elements and add special detail where you’d like.  I am NOT by any means a great seamstress so I work kinda slow and my lines are NEVER straight, but once again, I like things a little “messy” looking and I think that it adds to the feel and look of the design.  So don’t be afraid if you “screw up”.  It will just add to the character of the shirt.
  19. Hand sew your mismatched button eyes onto your bunny.  If you’re making this for a girl, it would be super cute I think to make a ribbon hair bow and tack that onto the bunny’s head.

And there you go!  Hope you like it!  The perfect shirt for your little Easter bunny who maybe has had a little too much candy today! 🙂

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I know I said I’d show you guys how to do this so I finally am!  Sorry about the wait, but I think you’ll find it was worth it!  This is a BEAUTIFUL and easy DIY accessorie project that will “wow” everyone who sees you wear it.  This necklace is especially befitting for the spring (I LOVE SPRING!!) and I figured since it is Easter this weekend it will be the perfect compliment to your Easter ensemble.  The thing I like most about this project is that it is cheap (of course) and unique in that each rose turns out a bit different and you can customize the colors to any you’d like.  So lets just jump into it then shall we!

Cost: $0 for me (since I had everything on hand) but about $8-$15 depending on what you already have

Supplies:

  • A set of jewelry making tools (round nose pliers, wire cutters, flat nosed pliers).  I got mine at Walmart in a set of 3 for about $7.
  • Sculpey Clay.  Or other polymer clay of your choice.  They have a huge variety of colors for about $2 per block.  I usually stock up when they go on sale for half off.  I typically get the primary colors plus black, white, and brown and then mix them myself to whatever I need.
  • Acrylic craft paint.  I like to use brown, and sometimes metallic gold and silver to get the vintage/antique look to my roses.
  • A craft knife or utility knife.
  • A bead reamer or a skewer.
  • A medium paint brush.
  • Paper towels.
  • A water dish.
  • A palette.  I use a plate covered in tin foil.
  • A glass baking pan.
  • An oven.
  • 5-9 medium to large size beads in a coordinating color to your rose color pick.
  • Jewelry chain, jump rings, clasps, and eye pins.

If you’re serious about making jewelry its worth it to get familiar with the basic techniques to jewelry making.  I am honestly not a pro at all but found that a lot can be done with my cheap supplies and tools and some basic techniques.  Also, on a side note, I get a lot of my jewelry findings at The Dollar Store, Walmart, and my local craft store when they’re half off so its really not that expensive a hobby to have.  And its nice to have some supplies on hand to whip up last minute gifts for friends and family that are classy and handmade and look way more expensive than they actually were to make.

To help you out on this front, heres a link to a great site that will teach you the basics you’ll need to complete this project as well as help you with future jewelry making endeavors.  And if you need a little more to get you started, heres a couple more sites I found that I thought were clear and concise: http://www.jewelry-making- instructions.com/beaded-links.html ,http://www.making-jewelry-now.com/jewelry-making-instructions.html .  There, seriously easy huh?  With just those simple skills and your Walmart tools you can make literally hundreds of amazing pieces of jewelry.  Now to the part I’m going to really teach today.  How to make the vintage inspired clay rose bead that is going to completely MAKE this necklace.  Ready?  Here we go.

  1. Decide what color(s) you’d like to make your rose.  When I do this project I usually make a few different color options and do them at the same time just to make it worth the effort and to use as “give-aways” to my friends (cuz you know they’re going to want what you’ve got when they see your awesome necklace).
  2. If needed, mix your clay to get your desired color.  If for some reason you missed kindergarten and first grade and never learned how to “mix” colors, refer to a color chart.  I mixed red, blue, and white to get my pastel purple colored clay, green, yellow, blue, and white to get my turquoise colored clay, and white and yellow to get my pastel yellow clay.  Or you could just take the easy road and buy the exact color you’d like since they have plenty of color options at the craft stores to suit your needs.  Although if you forgo the color mixing, you still might want to work and knead your clay to make it a little softer and more pliable to work with.
  3. Once you’re clay feels pliable enough and is the desired color, pull off a small section and roll it into a ball (about the size of a pea).  Then using your fingers, smoosh that ball of clay flat and smooth (but not too thin since you want your rose petals to be durable after baking) to form a small disk of clay.
  4. Next, roll one of the edges of that clay disk in towards the other edge to form your rose center.  Don’t smoosh it together too much since you want the edges somewhat loose to peel down and turn a bit to make them look a bit more realistic.  Heres what you should be aiming for:
  5. Don’t worry if its not perfect.  If you don’t like your rose center, just reform it into a disk and start again.  You’ll get the hang of it soon and then you can set your center aside and work on the outer petals by using the same idea; start with a portion of clay (a bit larger than pea sized now), roll it into a ball, and smoosh it into a disk.
  6. Now we form the rest of the rose by taking these disk-like “petals” and wrapping them around the rose, overlapping the rose center’s seam like so:
  7. See how it is already starting to look like a rose?  To make the petals more “real”, pinch, pull, and bend the edges of the petals up and/or down to get that life-like effect.
  8. Now continue making your petal disks and wrapping them around the center being sure to somewhat overlap them and being careful to make larger petals as the rose grows outward.Don’t worry about the excess clay that is underneath.  I use it to hold on to as I work and then cut it off with a utility knife before I bake it.
  9. Continue working your clay petals around the rose until it is the desired size and fullness that you like.
  10. What do you think?  Aren’t you amazed at how easy that was!  Now take out your utility knife or craft knife and gently carve off the clay “stem” that you’re holding on to.  I try to make my roses pretty flat in the back so that they aren’t too bulky on the necklace and have less of a tendency to flip around while wearing it.
  11. Try not to handle the rose too much on top since you want to maintain the look of your petals and not accidentally squish your pretty flower too much.
  12. Next, take your bead reamer or your skewer (toothpick or needle works too), and create a hole through the base of your rose from one end to the next to allow it to be strung onto an eye pin later.
  13. Lay your little rose bud beads out on a glass cooking dish and heat your home oven to 275 degrees (or whatever the clay package suggests).
  14. Bake your clay roses according to the time suggested on the clay packaging.  I use Sculpey clay and usually bake around 6-12 roses at once at 275 degrees for about 12 minutes.  The package says 15 minutes for 1/4 inch clay but I like to somewhat “under-cook” my clay roses so that they are a tiny bit rubbery and not too brittle when they’re cool.  I just have found that it makes them a little bit more durable and lets face it, you are not going to want your new work of art to fall apart on your neck later!
  15. Let your clay roses cool completely.You can see I made some smaller roses to use as rings later if I feel like it.
  16. At this point you can use your rose as a bead and wire it to a necklace, you can coat it with a glossy finishing spray, or you can continue on to find out how to antique it a bit (which is what I prefer.  I think it just gives it a little something extra and makes it more unique).
  17. Prepare your antiquing supplies.  Heres how I set mine up:You can see I have my coordinating beads picked out (this helps me decide what colors, and how much, “antiquing” I want to do), my water glass to dilute my paint and rinse my brush in, my painting palette with squirts of my “antiquing” colors on it, another foil wrapped plate to set my wet roses on to dry, and my paper towels to wipe off the excess paint.
  18. For these three colors of roses I chose to use a goldy-brown metallic craft paint and a darker brown flat craft paint to give my roses the vintage look I wanted.  To do this, wet your brush and generously dilute your metallic color and simply wash it over the entire rose, being sure to get it into every nook and cranny, and then while the paint is still wet, use your paper towel to rub off the excess.  This will just ever so slightly tinge the petals a shimmery gold with a heavier application in the crevices.
  19. Once that first coat of paint has dried somewhat, do the same technique using the darker brown.  This will allow the paint to seep into the crevices of the petals and give the flower dimension and depth as well as slightly stain the rose an antique-brown tone.  You can do this multiple times if you’d like, applying your diluted brown paint with the paint brush to the entire rose and then wiping off the excess to allow the original color to come through and leaving a brown paint deposit in the crevices.  Heres a look at what I did with the brown and the gold paint:After it was covered in the diluted paint I wiped off the excess to get this result:Not a HUGE difference but it actually adds a lot of character to the once flat looking rose.
  20. Once you get the desired antiqued effect you’re going for you can just let your pretty roses dry while you work on assembling your necklace using the basic techniques you learned from the links at the beginning of this tutorial.  Oh and just so you can see the difference, heres a look at what the “antiqued” roses look like compared to the non-painted roses:And heres a look at how I assembled my necklace:
  21. Basically what you want to do is pick out an odd number of coordinating beads (an odd number so that a middle bead falls in the middle of the necklace instead of a space), and link them together using eye pins and the wire looping technique you now know.  This will be the center of your necklace.  The rose will be asymmetrical when alls said and done.
  22. Then, using an eye pin and the same looping technique, slide the eye pin through the roses beading hole you gave it and attach it to one end of your beaded chain. For this necklace I used large brown pearls and antiqued brass eye pins and chain to play off the turquoise antiqued rose.
  23. Finally, finish off your necklace by measuring out your chain, attaching the clasp to the center to get the thing on and off, and attaching the chain to your beaded chain and rose.  TIP:  I think this necklace looks the most flattering when the rose sits right along or right under your collar-bone, so adjust the length of your chain accordingly.

There you go folks!! Are you amazed by the beautiful thing you’ve just created?! Believe me, you won’t be the only one!  Be sure to make extras since I guarantee there will be some jealous friends wanting a look-a-like asap!  I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and had fun making this awesome necklace!  Play around a bit and create some more wonderful pieces…maybe earrings or a ring to match?  And definitely take the time to learn those basics.  I use those simple techniques a lot when I make jewelry and they’re sure to show up in later tutorials!  Alright then!  Have fun crafting and stay tuned for my next special holiday tutorial; “How to Make a “Hopped Up” Easter T-shirt for You or Your Little Ones”!

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